Sorry for the late reply.  The Shay is easier.  From memory, you'll pull the trucks off with one screw on each holding it to the chassis.  Then, the motor is inside that round bit in the center of the chassis and you can access the gears once you open that part up... I think the engine slides out with the gears on top, but don't recall.

The porter, I think, just has a plate on the bottom and the gears are inside that.

Here's a tutorial on the shay.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8umshcB1Ak&t=276s

You can use regular ez-track, but you need to use a wire to connect the extra conductor on the bottom of the auto reversing track through to the end of the track segment.

Yes, I understand what you are posting.  Good luck.

If the 0-6-0 is the same as my On30 stuff (I have several models) then they all have a 2 pin connector, and a 4 pin connector.

This is the 2 pin plug (the male side).

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_91&products_id=4185

Look in the HO universal parts section, there are 2 and 4 pin plugs (and others).  I am 99% they are the same ones.

If the wire broke and the metal connector is still inside the plug, you may be able to repair it.  It requires a bit of surgery, but the connector inserts into the plug and then gets latched by a tiny little plastic 'flap' that grabs the connector and holds it in place.  You can take a dental pick or similar tool and gently pry up the flap to release the connector.  Resolder the wire to the connector, being sure to not fill in the connector with solder, then reinsert it into the plastic plug housing.

I finally learned to not pull on the wires to disconnect the plug.  Use a small flat head screw driver to gently pry the connectors apart.  I've seen other people use the tip of an exacto blade to pierce the plastic of the plug and pull it up, but use caution with the sharp pointy bit

Any idea how old it is?  If it's been sitting for a long time It may need to be lubed, but it should at least try to move.  How did you test it; did you try it in both directions (switch on the transformer)?  Did you increase the speed dial at least half way, or more?

Did Bachmann make a combine to match the B&O coach #26312?

Without more information, if they have a mechanical inclination, they could figure out how to disassemble/reassemble the models and figure out where all the new bits could fit.  It's very intricate work.  May be right up their alley.

It could easily extend to other models, not just that particular model.

I don't really understand the exact thing you want, but you could use 2 left, 2 right, and a crossover in the center to create an oval with a figure 8 created with the turnouts and crossover.

Quote from: Dbarefoot on January 18, 2025, 11:54:29 AMThank you Fred, but I'm not interested in those cars for my railroad. They to me are too plain, and small. I'll break down and buy a passenger train set, or car by car until I have what I need, "as soon as I can with this economy haha".

There is a set of 4 bumble bee passenger cars on ebay now.  It's an auction, no boxes.  There's also 2 OR&W cars being sold separately, but buy the same seller.

I have some unlettered burgundy, and olive green cars I'll probably end up selling.  I'll be home tomorrow and can see what I have if you're interested and want to reach out to me.

John, I just picked one up used.  I see the power pack is 7.5vdc and the speed is fixed.  Mine runs about the speed I'd want it to.

I am going to swap out my controller with a better unit to do station stops and add momentum.  The top of the shed pops off, reach inside the shed and push the sides out where the roof meets, and it will come off.  Then, you can pull the wall at the back of the shed and it holds the control module.

Take a meter and test your track.  It should be close to 7.5V when it's plugged in. 

I just got a used one and had the same issue.  I took a q-tip with white vinegar (cause that's what I had) and got all the wheels wet, then stuck it on the track and let it run back and forth.  It sort of sputtered for a minute, then it smoothed out and has been running fine. I did that to make sure the wheel wipers against the wheels were free of gunk.  If I had mineral spirits handy I would have used that.

Quote from: Fred Klein on December 04, 2024, 12:56:04 PMI think, (not 100% sure) that I had to cut one or two of the traces on the board in order to prevent a short and possibly I ended up bridging some pads with a short wire to create a new trace.

Yes, you would need to isolate the light from the rails so the decoder can control the light.

I'm speculating here, but that PCB looks like it plugs into something in the direction of the cap, marked with the arrow in the first picture.  My guess is that plugs into something that is wired to the motor.  If that is true, then you would need to cut the traces for both the light, and the motor.  OR, you could not plug in the pcb and wire the motor up directly.  But, if my guess is true, then using the pcb would be an easier way to connect to the motor, but you MUST cut the traces if you intend to keep the pcb and plug it into what ever it plugs into***.

***Assuming it plugs into something.

Without it being in the circuit it's hard for me to figure it out, but the 2 resistors look like yellow-violet-gold, or 47ohms.  Looks like Rail R (right) and L (left) connect to the light wires (L- and L+).  The resistors tie the rails out to the capacitor and then it appears the board got plugged into something?

In any case.  My opinion is you can scrap the board.  The caveat is that I don't run DC and haven't done a conversion to DCC, so since I didn't disassemble it I can't be held accountable for the results.

Can't think of any reason to keep it. Is there anything on the other side, or is the cap the only component?