Well, that pulls the rug out from under EZ Command system.  It also lets you know that as an intermediate modeler, I don't conform to the normal railroad (real or otherwise) standards.  I just can't give up the hours of fun ...now operating under my new name as "helper locomotive".   I hope the OP (original post originator) understands this new clarified definition. 

Funny thing though, I have two locomotives that are addressed the same, never tried to get them to operate at the same speed (too lazy to change the speed CV's to match them), so that's where I don't operate them on the same train.  I use my look-alike dummies to simulate the consist. ...but now with my new definition of "helper locomotive....".  The grandkids will love that new name!

I agree, and there's a "But"  behind that.  The OP (original post) was asking what the EZ command can do and hopefully I provided a way to do "Consist" of a train using the EZ Command.  Yes, it's more complicated than the more advanced DCC systems, but we don't know of the OP's desires.  Therefore, I assumed that the OP is like me, i.e., not having a desire to enhance the controller, or adding additional finances at this point in time to enter into advanced systems.   
As for complex operations, to me, that comes with tracks switches, adding sidings, more road crossings, two train operations on a single-track main line, and more than 2 trains operating on any layout.  A single train consist (which the OP was asking), again, to me, is still simple operation.  Am I wrong in this?

The definition from US Federal Railroad Admin and the Assoc. Of American Railroads is confusing.  Can someone restate that in layman's terms (I have no experience in or on real railroads).

^{PS- This is a great discussion, I'm learning from it, and I pray I'm not disrespecting the OP, Trainman, anyone who responds and/or anyone who reads my posts.  By all means, if I state anything incorrect, false, or grey area, I'm always open to correction, ...that's how I learn.}

Gentlemen, you're hired!  The trucks and worn gear, found no binding, i.e., they were free rotating.  With J Wards information, I meticulously took apart the circuit board in order to get to the boster screw (didn't know that's the name of that screw).  Performed the tightening on that one front truck, then restored all parts.  Performed a test run and funny thing, the rear truck axle separated.  Again took apart the circuit board and found the boster screw of the rear truck and performed tightening (approx, 3/4 turn of that screw).  Restored all chassis parts, and performed a test run.   IT WORKED!   After operating the locomotive on my main line, in both forward, reverse, a few jerking operations and 8 car loads around the layout, the locomotive performed superbly. 

I am truly grateful.  Of all the maintenance I've performed on my few locomotives, this is a totally new information that I would have never performed without your insight.  Thank you, thank you, and thank you again. 

Here is another tidbit of information you might look into.  Do you plan to run on dcc, now or in the future? Just note that DCC uses signals in the rails, rather than variable voltage of DC, to control train speed and direction. Possible poor contact can lead to loss of control of a train, as the locomotive continues to operate on the last readable command (DCC) it received, regardless of what commands were being sent. Steel rails may be okay if corrosion is not a formable issue in your area.  For this reason, it would be strongly advised not to use steel if your location experiences high humidity, and other corrosive type environments, plus if you do plan to run using DCC, nickel-silver may produce superior contact qualities in environments that steel would corrode and provide lower quality contact due to that corrosive environment.

Hope this tidbit of info provides some clarification of steel versus nickel-silver. 

Quote"And maybe it's time to move out of the beginner's world of the EZ command and get a more advanced DCC system intended for more serious Model Railroad..."

This statement indicates that there is a discrepancy in the definition of "more serious Model Railroader".   It's understood that Bachmann specializes in producing beginner models for beginner modelers.  That's great (actually need more companies to cater to beginners).  So, when does one become a "more serious Modeler"?  Is it due to building a layout to perfection?  Is it due to making a layout more permanent?  Is it due to operating a layout as if it were the real thing (real railroad)?  Or is it based on how advanced the electronics is for the layout?   
I've been grappling with this definition since I created my first adult layout.  Do I consider myself a serious modeler?  That depends again on how one defines what a serious modeler is.  Currently, I haven't been able to definitively decide what type of modeler I am.  Therefore, I instituted the term "intermediate modeler".  I still use the EZ Command and Walkaround, I've seen how the more advanced systems operate, but again, to me buying these more advanced DCC systems would be like driving a Corvette, Porsche, or Lamborghini in rush hour traffic. (On a side note: Kids can learn on the advance systems, but giving EZ Command to a two- to five-year-old is much easier).  Those advance systems would be overkill, with options I probably won't use, and basically, they're made for adults (12 and up) not little ones.  In short, I don't want a layout that is permanent (I like changing things), I do strive for perfection, not thrilled on operating my setup like a real railroad, and the electronics fits the desire to keep it simple, or to some... complicated.   

And what does one call trains cars in a consist, ...Luggage!

This is one of my work horses that has operated for more than 8 years... say.  When last week while pulling a load of 8 cars, the locomotive went into spinning the rear wheels (trucks) and the front wheels (trucks) not spinning.  Got it back into the maintenance shop and found that the front drive shaft separated from the worm gear shaft.  See image.      Thought this would be a simple fix, that is, just slip the connecting rod (yellow lined) back onto the worm gear shaft and all would be well.  NOT!  I put the locomotive back on the track and within say 10 track feet, it slips off again.   I tried glue on the back side of the shaft (motor side), but that failed.  So I'm at a lost as to how and/or what keeps the shaft connecting rod in place.  I don't see any issues with the other shaft and I also don't know or see what's keeping the other connecting rod on the worm gear rear trucks.


I'm missing something, but I'm at a lost at this juncture.  Oh, Bachmann doesn't have that connecting rod (yellow lined) piece as an individual piece to purchase.   So, can anyone inform me of what I'm missing or advice on fixing this issue?

Mr. Ward is correct; the EZ command does not have the capability to change the CVs for speed and other functions.  What is available using only the Bachmann EZ command is the ability to control the two locomotives, which you do have.  Problem, when you start one locomotive, pulling a set of cars, it will hum along but stand still, since the other locomotive is not powered yet.  Selecting the EZ command to power the second engine, then you're in consist operation.  The lead engine will now move forward since the operation of the second locomotive is now also moving.  To me, this is where the fun is.  You will need to keep track of which locomotive you are addressing for speed, especially if the second engine is at the end of the train.  That is, if the last car is the second locomotive and you're pushing harder than the head locomotive, you may derail some cars in between.  With practice swapping from one locomotive to the other using the EZ command will make doing this much easier.

Now, understand I used to do this type of operation, but alas, (you can blame Bachmann) I moved to using the now discontinued Bachmann Walkaround controller.  This allows operation of two locomotives with separate power knobs.   
Consist operations is, to me, so much fun, i.e., the best part:  With two engines addressed differently in a consist, one can speed up or slow down using different throttles.  In my case, I have the EZ controller, and the other is the EZ walkaround (discontinued).  This may seem archaic to professionals (those who use those fancier controllers) but having that basic speed knob makes it quite easy to control during consisting.

So, in short, the answer is yes, you can speed match, but it will be manual operation of the throttle of each individual locomotive.  Just note, I've been told that this is not the way it works on real railroads. 

Hold on, ...lets' not get ahead of this issue until more details are provided.  What's in question is, "Is Bachmann's DCC Controller providing a problem?"   To answer that, these listed details are needed:
1.  Is the brand-new locomotive manufactured by "Bachmann", "Atlas", "Broadway", etc.
2.  Is the Bachmann EZ Controller button 10 (probably mistakenly) been pressed to operate in DC mode.
3.  The model of EZ command controller (namely the plus version) could be an issue. (Will need additional info, i.e. model number.)

Assuming that the new locomotive is manufactured by Bachmann, then based on the limited information provided, the decoder CV address (out of the box) should be set to 3.   If the EZ command controller experienced any short on powering up, the EZ command will automatically move to button 1.  Thereby rendering the locomotive to operate in auto (per say).  Therefore, to return control of the new locomotive, the button 3 must be pressed to put the controller back into communication with the new locomotive.

Also based on the provided info, the EZ controller is functioning from the info provided since, its powering the track (locomotive is operating), and the emergency stop feature is operating.

To troubleshoot this problem: 
1- remove all locomotives from the track.
2-power (energize) the EZ command (connected to the track)
3-set the power knob to minimal power to the track
3-set the EZ command controller to 3 (press the 3 button)
4-place the new locomotive on the track
If the locomotive powers and wants to move on the track (no. 3 is not at minimum) or the locomotive is in DC mode.  It could indicate an issue with the power knob.
If the locomotive does not want to move once on the track, then power the locomotive by rotating the power knob.  The locomotive should move if the decoder CV address and the controller button is in position 3.
If the locomotive does not move with the controller button in 3, this would indicate that the locomotive CV address is not 3 but some other address.

There could be other issues, but more details would be needed.

Hope this helps.

You are not going to believe this.  I read your post and didn't think much of it.  Days later, on a curiosity search regarding how and when Bachmann entered into an agreement with Shinsei to manufacture construction tractors, I ran across what you were asking information about.

From the 1993 catalog by Walthers (page 35) I found the information you requested.  Attached is that page from the Walters catalog indicating that the 82010 model for GP30 issued by Spectrum,  It indicates that this was new for 1993.
You cannot view this attachment.

Hope this helps.

Good news. Thanks.

This reminds me when I started working on my layout, say 5 or more years ago.  I didn't have the Bachmann crossover and was trying to do exactly what you are attempting to do.  When I finally saved up enough spare change, I bought Bachmann EZ track 44575 and 44576.  What I did find out was that the length started out to be a (minus) problem, but then I concluded that the length was actually a plus.   So, with that, take a look at this past forum concerning crossovers, it might enhance further your track plan.

Double crossovers      (Click to go to this post)

By the way, what you are trying to do will work, (what Len replied with) just be careful when connecting the track. That is, connect as if you were doing plumbing, i.e., work to toward the end.   I've broken a many EZ track connectors trying to connect track from the middle.

Hope this helps.

I'm looking to install another bridge on my HO layout.  Buying an abutment for the track should (in my opinion) not cost as much as I've found.  I've found that the 3D printed versions cost even more.  Therefore, before I proceed in my endeavor to experiment with stiff foam material, I was wondering if anyone created their abutments using foam instead of buying them pre-manufactured ?

If I'm successful in making two abutments from foam, I'll share images of what I created.... but don't hold your breath.

If we were in a meeting, I would second that notion.  I too, would love to have a figure in the locomotive cab.   Basically, I'm getting of tired seeing my locomotives running around without an engineer/conductor, cause it looks like the moving locomotive is a "runaway".

By the way, I'll look into the idea of heat to bend some figures.
 

From previous users of EC Command Controllers by Bachmann, there is one apparent issue with one of the models that were produced by Bachmann.  Therefore, in order to analyze any further to diagnose your malfunctioning controller, we need to know what model number controller you have.  Note different models have different issues that in some cases can be resolved, other issues not so much.

Will await your response as to what model number controller you are having issues with.  Also providing a more detail response as to what the controller is or is not doing (i.e., power to tracks, no lights on controller, no AC input, etc.) would go a long way to helping resolve your issue.

Here to help, if I can.

I don't know how you found this regulator decoder install post, cause my searches found nothing.  This is really good news, for I've wanted to install a decoder in my ballast regulator, but was hesitant for I felt there wasn't enough room to place the decoder in.  I actually was actively thinking of buying Bachmann's (discontinued) DCC ready version (Model 16947), but again I believe this model only isolates the motor, and one still has to find a location to place the decoder.   

Again, thanks, this provides me with more confidence that I can put a decoder in my existing regulator.