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Rolling Stock question...

Started by trainmainbrian, January 02, 2015, 08:50:22 AM

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jbrock27

How big is the opening on the Rail Zip container?  Isn't also the same as ATF?

The bottle the Wahl comes in has too big an opening to not apply more than needed to the rails.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Jerrys HO

Quote from: jbrock27 on January 04, 2015, 02:36:54 PM
How big is the opening on the Rail Zip container?  Isn't also the same as ATF?

The bottle the Wahl comes in has too big an opening to not apply more than needed to the rails.

Heard all kinds of replies as to the relationship to ATF and have no clue. I don't think it is that too expensive to buy a bottle of RZ  to worry about if ATF has any other additives that may effect our modeling. 1 one oz. bottle goes a long way (still on my first bottle) as it does not take much to put a thin film on the tracks and it is not or does not effect ballasted trackwork or scenery.

jbrock27

No worries.  People use ATF w/o probs.

So the opening on the Rail Zip bottle is small enough, not to have too much run out?
Keep Calm and Carry On

Jerrys HO

Quote from: jbrock27 on January 04, 2015, 03:12:34 PM
No worries.  People use ATF w/o probs.

So the opening on the Rail Zip bottle is small enough, not to have too much run out?

Oops! forgot about that. Tip is cut to size like on stupid glue. I just take a straight pin and puncture the tip.

jbrock27

Keep Calm and Carry On

Trainman203

About the Cratex block, I'm not worried that much about the price of an 8 buck item.  It's not worth the time it takes to save pennies, although that is sport for some folks.

Besides I get most of my stuff from my friend's  dealership at a steep discount, I pay way less than the prices you see.   I hardly get anything off the internet because my friend with the discount can usually at least equal the price if not best it.  Plus my money stays at home in my community, something that doesn't always seem to matter much any more.. . However I'm of the age where it's still a big deal to me.  I know that others don't see it that way.  Please allow me to think the way I do.  Thank you.

Trainman203

Jward, the rail zip instructions said ,if I recall , to apply it to the rail, let it sit for a day, then wipe.  That's what I did and it was a mess.  Maybe I should try it again letting the train spread it around, that's a lot better.

Jerrys HO

Yup that's better but I tend not to wipe but every 2 weeks and then re apply. Usually when wiping down I use the same rag after shaking it out.

rogertra

#23
USE INSTRUCTIONS: FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY. Read all directions and cautions
before use.
Remove cap and apply Rail-Zip to clean cloth, cotton swab, felt pad or sponge. Apply directly to
surface area to be treated. A thin, uniform coating is best. Do not rub Rail-Zip. Product works
chemically, not mechanically. Allow product to work overnight (10-12 hours) to penetrate and
protect. Optional: Remove any excess residue by wiping lightly with clean cloth lightly moistened
with water.

However, I just apply Rail Zip directly to the railhead, just a few drops per rail, and then run trains through it.  I usually place the few drops of Rail Zip on throat of my staging yard.

I don't recall all those instructions when I first purchased the product, 10 plus years ago, I'm sure the bottle says "Apply directly to the railhead" but I can't find my container at the moment to double check.



Cheers

Roger T.


Jerrys HO

Quote from: rogertra on January 04, 2015, 10:51:36 PM
USE INSTRUCTIONS: FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY. Read all directions and cautions
before use.
Remove cap and apply Rail-Zip to clean cloth, cotton swab, felt pad or sponge. Apply directly to
surface area to be treated. A thin, uniform coating is best. Do not rub Rail-Zip. Product works
chemically, not mechanically. Allow product to work overnight (10-12 hours) to penetrate and
protect. Optional: Remove any excess residue by wiping lightly with clean cloth lightly moistened
with water.

Cheers

Roger T.



Roger, was it not you that said he put a drop on the rail and let the wheels move it around the layout. I know it came from this forum as I started doing just that.

jbrock27

TM, please feel free to think any way you would like and thanks very much for the info.  It sounds to me, that even though you say the $$ is not important to you, you have managed to get really cheap prices through your buddy, so I guess that helps you to say you don't have to worry about the price.  I do and don't feel the need to make any apology for looking to get the best price I can for something.  Never had the privilege of owning 15 rental properties.
Keep Calm and Carry On

jbrock27

Here's the real question Roger.  Do you think Rail Zip is basically ATF?
Keep Calm and Carry On

rogertra

Jerrys HO.

Yes, I do put drops on the rail and let trains spread Rail Zip around.

Unfortunately, while you were quoting my post, I'd realised I'd forgotten to add that at the end and reposted the edited post after you had quoted me.  Sorry about that.  :(

Have a look below and you'll see my edited post.

Cheers

Roger T.



Jerrys HO

6'' bead on the rail head to be exact, and 15yre. not 10.
You had me worried I followed the wrong advice, even if I did it still works great.

jbrock27

I told you to stop worrying so much ;)
Keep Calm and Carry On