Those two wires should connect to the B end's rails, there is a gap in the rails between the two sides.

It's possible that the gap is being bridged somehow, that would prevent the set from working properly.

The usual reason for what you described is accidentally connecting the tracks to accessory power terminals on the controller.

Do you have another locomotive or controller you can test with?

I'm afraid that those track sections are only available in sets.

As for the fuse/controller, you can contact Bachmann and see if they have replacement parts.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/contactus.php  (Scroll down for international offices)



Alternatively, you may be able to find a used set for a lower price than a new one.

Is the extra track you purchased the 'auto-reversing' type?

Standard track will not work properly with auto-reversing sets.


If you did get auto-reversing track, you can double-check the connections of the A/B sections by removing the black cover underneath.

It appears to use the same power supply Bachmann is currently selling with replacement controllers in their online store.

That model is rated for 16 watts at full speed.

I don't use Facebook either, sorry Bach Man.

Some 4-6-0s were made with factory-installed sound, but the parts store is sold out of the individual boards.

The non-sound tenders for these locos have a speaker cutout and an 8-pin socket for DCC decoders.

You can purchase a 3rd party DCC sound decoder, but will need to supply your own speaker.

Bachmann has a few K4s out there, which one are you referring to?

If your track layout gets large enough, you will experience 'voltage drop' when the locomotive travels a few feet from the terminal rerailer.

This can be fixed by using additional terminal rerailers and power feeders connected to your controller.

Connect them one at a time to check for short circuits.

Double-check the underside of your tracks, each reversing segment has either an A or B printed near the ends.

A ends are supposed to connect to As and B ends connect to Bs.

What controller(s) are you using?

If the motor is 'buzzing' and the headlight is illuminated, it's possible that you connected the rails to the accessory terminals instead of the track outputs.


You can try disconnecting the power supply from the track and put a 9 volt battery on the rails.  (Or touch it directly to the wheels)  That's how I test locomotives.

If the motor or gears are seized, Bachmann still makes lubricants for locomotives, you can open it up and try replacing out the old stuff.

Voltage drop issues will depend on the size of your layout, but a simple circle or oval of track such as the ones provided in starter sets shouldn't suffer noticeably unless the rail joiners are too loose.

Like Jonathan, I too use buss cables to attach feeders about every 5 feet, though my layout is an end-to-end E-Z Track configuration with return loops at each end.

Thanks to the copper buss wires, my power supply feeds one end of the 70-foot mainline and I have no noticeable reduction in speed at the other end.

Aside from the metals used and the color of the roadbed, Bachmann's steel and nickel-silver tracks are identical.

If you're worried about galvanic corrosion, an electrolyte would also be required.

Assuming the two metals are kept dry you should have nothing to fear aside from oxidation, which is easily removed with regular maintenance.


On a side note:  Oxidation occurs more quickly on steel than nickel-silver, so the latter requires less frequent cleaning.

Is the headlight a bulb or LED?

If LED it's possible the new decoder put out too much voltage and fried it.


Try giving the socket's blue and white pins 1.5 volts from a battery with no decoder installed, and the positive side touching the blue wire.

If I found the correct exploded diagram for that model, it should be fairly simple.  I've installed a few Tsunami 2s into my locos.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H502X-IS001.PDF


The diagram shows a standard 8-pin socket for decoders with a matching plug.

The Tsunami 2s do not come with those plugs though, you'll need to solder one on or replace the wiring harness.



Either the TSU-1100 or TSU-2200 will work.  The 1100 is easier to fit in tight spaces, but I prefer the 2200 if it will fit in your loco's tender.

I would advise the TSU-2200 'Steam 2' model if it will fit.  It's pretty much the same as the smaller TSU-1100, but has two advantages:


Firstly, Soundtraxx sells a wiring harness with a 8-pin plug on the other end that is compatible with the TSU-2200.  (Part number 810135)

Second, the TSU-2200 has a socket for a Current Keeper, which will prevent the sound from cutting out on uneven or dirty track.


A Current Keeper can also be added to a TSU-1100, but requires more soldering.


Also keep in mind that a speaker will need to be added to the tender.  Soundtraxx sells them, but make sure you get one that is compatible with your decoder's output.