Life-Like makes what they call a "Power-Link" adapter for their "Power-Loc" track system. Item numbers are 433-21314 for the black roadbed/steel rail version, and 433-21344 for the grey roadbed/nickle silver rail version. One end has a standard "Power-Loc" connection, the other has a rail joiner for connecting to other mfg's Code 100 rail. There is a hollow space under the roadbed on that end for locking pin/loop of True-Track/EZ-Track to fit in without having to cut it off.

If your LHS doesn't have "Power-Links" in stock, they are available directly from Walthers www.walthers.com.

Len

For indoor use, you could use an Atlas-O turntable as a base/drive/indexing mechanism for a G-scale turntable bridge built on top of it.

Len

If you're talking about steam locos the numbers represent the wheel arrangement of the loco, e.g., 4-6-2 would mean a 4-wheel pilot truck, 6 driving wheels, and a 2-wheel trailing truck. A loco with a 4-6-2 wheel arrangement is generally known as "Pacific".
This identification system was developed by Fredrick Whyte.

More info on the system can be found at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whyte_notation

Len
   

It may fit if you remove the original battery holder and horn relay. You might have to drill a coupler of mounting holes though.

The question is whether that will leave room for the Dallee reversing board. I've never done both in a 2033, so I don't know. I've only done it with a 'big brother' 2333, which has more space to work with.

Len

The HO slot car/RR crossing tracks would have to be put on cork roadbed to get the track the same height as EZ-Track. You'll also probably have to clip the plastic loops off the ends of the EZ-Track connecting to the RR-crossing track.

Len

Short answer, no. For reasons known only to Bachmann decision makers at the time, the #6 Crossover was designed for use in DCC layouts, with no provision for simple (e.g., removable jumpers) method to convert it for use in a DC layout.

That said, it is possible to modify it, by making gaps in the rails and the electrical connections underneath, for use in a DC layout. Use the forum 'Search' function to find the link to the instructions on how to do this.

Len

According to the info on the Bachmann product info page, the 2-6-4 loco in the 'Girls Train' should operate on any track down to O-27 size, so it should be real happy on O-48 curves. Of course, all bets are off if you're operating at Warp 9.5.

You mention "track connectors", so it sounds like you're using solid rail Atlas-O track with rail joiners. Sometimes the joiners get spread open a bit if the track is taken apart and put together a lot. All you have to do is slide the joiner off, squeeze the opening at the top together with your fingers, and slide it back on to keep it from sticking out and snagging flanges.

If that doesn't cure the problem, check that your pilot can pivot freely and your drivers are in gauge. I operate all kinds of Williams and Lionel steamers on Atlas-O track and never had this king of problem.

Len

If the vertical transition from flat to grade, or grade to flat at the top, is too abrubt knuckle couplers can "bypass" each other and you get a runaway train. This is especially true with longer passenger and freight cars, e.g., over 50 scale feet long, and pier/trestle sets with the piers/trestles set too close together creating a steep grade.

You can usually see this happen if you watch carefully as the train makes the vertical transition. If this is what's happening you either need to make the transition less abrupt, or switch to shelf couplers.

Len

Dallee http://www.dallee.com/PDFs/DalleeCatalog54other.pdf makes electronic reverse units that will work with old AC motor locos. The #400, rated 4-amps, is for smaller single motor units. The #1400, rated 10-amps, will work with larger single motor steamers and dual motor diesel locos.

Wiring diagrams for various styles of AC motors are on the Dallee web site.

Len

Sounds like there's a bad reversing board, and someone added the diodes for the voltage drop to get slow speed starts. It's possible, though probably unlikely, it was hard wired it to run in reverse as the 2nd loco in a two unit lash up.

Len

Some of those questions involve information useful to Bachmann's competitors, so I suspect you're not going to get much in the way of answers on a public forum like this. It would probably be more appropriate to contact Bachmann's corporate offices regarding this type of information.

Len

If your power supply runs your train on a basic oval, e.g., 2 straights with a half circle on each end, you don't need a bigger one for more track. What you will need is additional power feeder wires from your power supply to the track.

At a minimum I'd run a feeder to the track at the center of each wall it runs around. If the train slows down anywhere between feeders add another one at that point.

Len

The EZ-Mates will not fit the Life-Like F40 with truck mounted 'horn-hook' couplers. The simplest way to convert it to knuckle couplers is with Life-Like's knuckle coupler http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/433-1427  that has a small pivot hole, the same as the 'horn-hook'.

They're available from Walthers in a pack with 2/pair for $3.98 or 20/pair for $6.98. The item number for the 20/pair pack is 433-1436. They also work well in old Tyco and Model Power cars. If you trim the "whisker" centering springs back about 1/8", you don't have to remove the tabs on the coupler box opening that kept the 'horn-hook' coupler from going too far off center.

Len

The old board looks pretty basic, two wire to the motor, one wire to the pick-ups, and one wire to the chassis/wheels. If this is the case, you should be able to switch to the new style reversing board with no problems.

Hold the new board with the relays and connectors facing you and to the right as you look at the board. There are two four pin connectors for diesels with two motors. The upper four pin connector is for the front motor, thats the one you want for a single motor loco.

After taking care of the physical mounting of the board in the tender, take one of the four wire plugs that comes with the board and plug it into the front motor socket. The "Red" wire goes to the center rail pick-ups, the "Black" wire goes to the chassis for the return path through the wheels, and the "Yellow" & "Blue" wire go to the motor. Connect whichever way gives you forward with you first start the loco.

If you decide to add a sound module at at later time, the upper two pin connector is a DC output that varies with track voltage, and the lower two pin connector is an AC output.

Len

The PIKO transformer will work fine with HO trains, just don't turn it all the way up to the full 20V output. Otherwise you'll either hit "Warp 9.5" and go airborn on a curve or burn out all your lights.

Len