Google "Highway Marking Standards" and you'll get a bunch of documentation for various state standards on highway markings. Most of these are based on the Federal guide found at: http://mutcd.fhwa.dot.gov/ser-shs_millennium_eng.htm

Len

You can get a replacement wire from Bachmann's Parts Department:

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_74&products_id=188&zenid=hmc15nr405cjqmmql96hd1inp0

Len

Quote from: dbwc6f on November 06, 2011, 09:28:18 AM
So I was going through my Bachmann Spectrum Dash 8s and replacing the plastic McHenry couplers with metal ones.  I tried the 148 whisker Kadee couplers they fit but don't move freely back to position when I tighten the cover.  Anyone have any ideas on which ones to use???

The shanks on Kadee 'whisker' couplers are slightly thicker than their couplers that use the bronze centering springs. This keeps them from flopping around in coupler pockets designed for those couplers. Since the arrival of the "clones", almost all of which use thinner shanks and plastic 'whisker' style centering springs, many manufacturers have reduced the depth of the coupler pockets.

On locos and cars with these shallower coupler pockets, the Kadee whisker couplers will bind if you tighten down the coupler pocket lid. So you have to thin the shank of the Kadee 'whisker' coupler a little, until it swings freely with the lid in place. Take a little off each side of the shank with a fine flat file, emery board, or very fine sandpaper until it fits correctly. Give it a good shot of graphite and burnish both sides when your done.

Len

We've pulled up to six 18in lighted passenger cars or 12 freight cars on a regular basis with no probrlems using a Williams GP-9 on the shopping center display layout outside of Tom's Train Station in Raleigh, NC. It may handle more, but any more cars than that, and it looks like a dog chasing it's tail.

Len

According to this article: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-15430842

Mattell Toys is buying HiT Entertainment, owner of the rights to Thomas the Tank Engine.

Considering how tight Mattell has been about licensing their other toys, will this buyout have any impact on Bachmann's production of HO Thomas & Friends equipment, currently licensed by HiT??

Len

Yes, the track power connections are soldered to the rails and run down through the central base. There should have been two micro switches included with the swing bridge, which are the Open/Close limit switches that connect to the motor.

There should have been a wiring diagram included with the bridge showing how to connect everything. If it's missing you may have to contact Walthers for a replacement because, so far at least, I haven't been able to find it on line anywhere.

Len

The Walthers swing bridge only rotates 90deg, then back to the through position. So there shouldn't be any polarity issues like you might have with a turntable that can rotate 180deg, or more.

The drive motor is DC, and can be controlled with a basic motor decoder or a momentary contact, center off, DPDT switch.

Len

One caveat regarding the Kadee #14x series "whisker" couplers. The mounting end of the shank, with the pivot/screw hole, is slightly thicker than a standard #5. This was done deliberately, so these couplers wouldn't flop around in a coupler box designed to take a #5 with it's bronze spring assembly.

Some coupler boxes designed specifically for EZ-Mate, McHenry, or Accumate couplers aren't quite as tall as older coupler boxes. So you may have to give the shank of a #148 a couple of swipes on each side with a fine flat file or emory board to keep it from binding in these boxes. And don't forget a shot of powdered graphite.

Len

For a #4 crossover with Atlas switches you'll need two LH Switches, two RH Switches, two 1in and two 1-1/4in straights, and a 25deg crossing. The diverging legs of the #4 switches connect directly to the 25deg crossing. One 1in and one 1-1/4in 'fitter' straights go between the through legs of the switches on each side of the crossing.

The Atlas book calls for 2-1/2in straights between the switches, but personally I've found using the smaller pieces to create a 2-1/4in straight is less of a hassle. There's a little bit of "fudge factor" involved when installing the small straights, so there will be some small gaps between rails when everything is lined up, but operationally I've never had a problem with this. If it bothers you, you'll have to cut your own custom 'fitter' pieces to eliminate it.

Len

There's a good description on how to modify the old style (not specifically sold as "DCC Friendly") Walthers/Shinohara double crossovers to make them suitable for use in a DCC layout at: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_walthers_old.htm#a2

This is a good sight to bookmark if you're getting in to DCC.

Len

Unless you're installing it as part of a reversing loop or wye there shouldn't be any need for an "Auto Reversing Unit" as mentioned in the last part of that ad.

A #4 turnout or crossover doesn't actually have a radius, since the diverging track is actually straight. But for planning what will go through it without problems, I treat #4's as roughly equivelant to an 18in radius curve.

Len

Quote from: Joe323 on September 28, 2011, 04:17:03 PM

Quote from: Len on September 28, 2011, 10:51:16 AM
If you have a truck load of money you could install block detection and control circuits like those produce by Atlas, Digitrax, and others.

Len

But other than for power districts Doesnt that kind of defeat the purpose of switching to DCC. 

No. The idea is you, as the engineer controlling the train, have to pay attention to what the signals are telling you. And if, for instance, they go "Red" because another train has the "Green" at a crossing, you better pay attention or there'll be a "corn field meet."

Len

Quote from: TwinZephyr on September 27, 2011, 06:53:24 PM
There have been no updates to the Roundhouse web site for nearly six months.  Athearn has announced a few Roundhouse products since April, but there is no trace of those models on the web site.  It certainly looks like Athearn/Horizon are loosing, if not have already completely lost, interest in pre-WWII prototypes.  Don't be surprised if you see the Roundhouse line scrapped within the next year or two.

Go the the Athearn web page and click the "New Products" link, you'll find the new Roundhouse items listed there after the Athearn items. Or you can sign up for the Athearn Newsletter on the Roundhouse web page, and receive new product notifications there. It costs money to maintain multiple web pages, so the Roundhouse web page is slowley being phased out, not the products.

Len

If you have a truck load of money you could install block detection and control circuits like those produce by Atlas, Digitrax, and others.

Len

Quote from: jerryl on September 27, 2011, 08:49:33 AM
They are in business, but are produced under the Athearn name.  Not everything is available, only what Athearn releases.  The Athearn American Loco was an upgraded Roundhouse.

Actually Roundhouse was purchased by Horizon Hobby, and is still around as RTR cars and locos in Roundhouse boxes. The manufacturer code to search what's available and order directly from Horizon is "RND". A few Roundhouse pieces ended up in the Athearn line, and some of the "old time" Athearn cars ended up in Roundhouse boxes. But, in general, both lines are still marketed seperately by Horizon.

Which is a 'good thing', and there are some nice cars in both lines to go with our Bachmann locos.

Len