Hi friends, can anyone tell me if steam locos had tenders attached when they were on turntables or wether they just relied on the head of steam on board to position them in the sheds.
      My longest steamer is 2-8-4 Berkshire ( by Bachmann of course ) which measures 15.5 inches coupler to coupler with the tender attached and 8 inches without.

Thanks, Limey.

 A friend has asked me to have a look at this 5 axle diesel that I think is made by Kato although there is nothing on the loco to indicate manufacturer.
  The problem is that someone else has installed a decoder in this unit but the unit does not run. The headlight can be turned on and off, and on the program track I can read back the four digit allocated number.
   The decoder is a Digitrax  DH163 wired to an 8 pin plug. This 8 pin plug goes into a small PC board.

      What I can't understand is the orange wire goes from the 8 pin PC board to the motor via a conglomeration of electrical parts that are contained in a piece of yellow shrink tubing.  Looking into one end of the shrink tubing ( which is about twice the size of the decoder,) there seems to be a bunch of diodes and resistors on a PC board.  There are no other wires in or out of this shrink tube effort.
    Does anyone have any  experience with anything of this sort, it's certainly new to me.

Thanks, Limey.

 I have been looking at getting a turntable for my layout but prices are very high.  $300 + on ebay plus shipping. for a DCC equipped 90 ft. turn table.
  I can get a new 90 ft. turntable and motor kit for less than $100,( Same make and model as the DCC)  does anyone know what is involved in making this into a DCC unit,  or is it even worth going the DCC route?

Regards, Limey.

Well I finally got up enough guts to try and install a decoder in my ballast regulator. The install wiring etc is straight forward if you have done one before, however the tough part was figuring out where to put the decoder in such a small space.

  To start with remove the coupler from the engineers end ( small cab ) this is just a push fit with two springy plastic tabs. compress the tabs and pull the coupler forward.

  Next remove the rear truck, one screw hold it in, this makes it easier when you reinstall those two long wire pickups that run through the unit to the motor board.

   There are two indents ( one each side ) that hold the motor and front trucks in place, very carefully spread the sides of the unit until these are released. you can then remove the whole motor front truck assembly.

   As you look at the unit, on one side is a small PC board with the wires attached ( this is fitted into a nice slot on one side of the unit) there is just enough space on the other side of the motor to fit a DZ125 decoder.

   Now looking at the PC board,  there are two copper clips that are covering four terminals, carefully remove them.
   The wiring hookup is as follows:-  With writing on the PC board facing you and the Red and Black wires to the left the wires from the decoder are  connected to the four terminals in this order,  RED  GREY  BLACK  ORANGE.  since there no lights on the Ballast Regulator the White, Blue and Yellow wires can be clipped off.

     I installed my DZ125 head down so that the wires ran over the top of the motor to the PC board

    The really tricky part was feeding those two long pickup wires back through the body of the Ballast Regulator to the rear trucks.
    Lots of patience and some bad words. Get these wires in place, relocate the motor and front truck assembly, reinstall the front coupler then lastly reinstall the rear truck.

         I hope this helps somebody who might want to do this install.  Sorry I can't do pics. I am still trying to get my head round this Windows 8.

     Regards, Limey.

Hi folks, has anyone done a decoder install in a Bachmann Ballast regulator?
The hook up seems straightforward enough for hardwiring but where do you put the decoder??  I am using a Digitrax DZ125 which measures 1/2  X  5/16  but there still does not seem to be anywhere to hide it in the motor compartment. Any suggestions will be gratefully received.

Limey.

I have an FB2  ( DCC ready ) and I want to install a decoder, how do I remove the shell. I searched this site but can't find specifics on the FB2.
      Do I have to remove the 4 screws, or the couplers or are there tabs to be pried out ??

Thanks, Limey.

A while back I bought a 2-8-4 Berkshire, Bachmann # 50948.  This loco is DCC equipped.  My layout is still under construction so I didn't get chance to try the loco when I first got it.  Yesterday I put on the test track ( Program Mode ) and could read back the address as 03.   So I switched to (Run Mode) and tried to power it up,  Nothing,  no lights no sounds from the motor nothing.
This loco is brand new out of the box, I checked the plugs and both are in securely.  Any suggestions plse.

BTW.  The power to the run mode is O.K. as I tried other units and they work fine, both in 03 and 4 digit addresses.

Regards, Limey

Hi folks,
              I have just received my 3 truck Climax and when I tested it on my Digitrax Zephyr on 03 for DC operation it didn't start to move until about 80 % of throttle input was engaged.
       While I realise that this little loco is no express I think it should respond sooner than that.
      Can anyone tell me what CV would increase this response and any suggestion regarding the numbers for the CV would be helpful.

Many thanks, Limey.

BTW. This is a sweet looking little loco, keep em coming Bachmann.

While reading Eisenhower's Crusade in Europe I was interested to see that the American forces transported a lot of their supplies by train. From England they were loaded on to landing craft outfitted with rails and then off in France by a flexable track system from the landing craft to the main rail system. Apparently because of the lack of locomotives left serviceable in Europe after the invasion they even shipped locomotives from the U.S. as well.
     Does anyone know what configuration these locos where.

Regards, Limey

I recently purchased Bachmann item 64901 (HO Alco FB2 diesel loco with sound) I have been able to program it for 4 digit address and the normal engine sounds come on but I am unable to get the bell and diesel horns to operate.     My system is a Digitrax Zephyr so as per. their instructions I programmed on the program track using a 1000 ohm resistor across the tracks.   Has anyone else had any similar problems with this item or have any suggestions as to how to rectify it.    Thanks. Limey.

                                                                                                                                 

Hi guys and gals,
                            I recently purchased Bachmanns Spectrum Ballast Regulator which is DCC ready.  It appears that there is very little space to install a decoder alongside the motor. Has anyone done an install on one of these and if so what decoder did you use.  The install is straight forward enough, no soldering, but the size of the decoder would seem to be a problem.

Thanks, Limey

I have an 0-6-0 Midwest Quarry loco with DCC. am I right in assuming that if I were to put a sound module in a gondola behind it and program it to the same ID # that it would work O.K.
    I realise of course that I would have to have power pickups from the gondola trucks and also that this would have to be a fairly permanent hookup btn, the 0-6-0 and the gondola but it would seem to be the only way to get sound for this tiny loco.
     BTW does anyone know of a typical sound unit for this 0-6-0.

Thanks. Limey.

question for the Bachmann,
The plugs that connect the tenders to the loco have a small protrusion on them, relative to this protrusion what is the orientation of the wires.
Am I right in assuming that the 4 wire plug is power supply to the motor and to the headlight and that the two wire plug is for the light at the back of the tender. If so which wires of the four are to the motor and which one is for the right and left rail.

Thanks. Limey.

   If anyone is interested I just picked up a NOKIA phone charger ( Wall Wart Transformer ) for  $1 at the local thrift store. It shows the output as 3.7v.DC at 350 m.amps. When I metered it the voltage was actually 8v.DC. It works great for powering 12 Tortoise switch machines on my HO layout. They are quiet and operate at a moderate speed.

Just my 2cents. worth.
Limey.

Mr. Bachmann,
                        Further to a post by IHC360 about the lack of C.N. rolling stock, I was wondering if your company had any plans to bring out a 4-8-4 in C.N. livery.
   You do the 4-8-2 Hvy. Mntn. of which C.N. only had 79 locomotives but have neglected the 4-8-4 of which they had 182.  Please consider this great loco for future production either in C.N. livery or painted/undecorated.  DCC equipped would be nice, with sound would be even better. 
      I really like your products now that your quality control has improved immensely.

Regards, Limey.

I maybe reinventing the wheel here, but being a little older and stiffer in the joints I was having trouble getting under my train table to install the Tortoise switch machines. So not wanting to take the layout apart to turn the table on their sides I figured there had to be an easier way.Using the paper template supplied with the Tortoise, I made a couple of more sturdy templates from Lexan clear polycarbonate. I drilled a 1/4 " hole for the wire that goes from the Tortoise to the switch throw rod and 1/16th inch holes for the mounting screws My tables, roadbed and subroad bed come to about 1 1/8th. inches thick.With the switch in position on the road bed I marked outside the two ties above and below the throw rod. I then removed the switch and using the roadbed centre line I located the centre point between the tracks where the Tortoise activation wire comes through.  I then drilled a 1/4" hole right through all three layers of table, sub road bed and road bed.Using a 1/4" x 2" bolt thru the template and the three layers I secured it from under the table with a wing nut. ( Finger tight ) I was then able to centre the template over the road bed and drill the mounting holes. I located the mounting screw holes under the table and marked them with a felt marker. I then installed the mounting screws and then removed them again. Doing this makes it easier to mount the Toroise later.Before mounting the Tortoise I use a 6 volt lantern battery and centre the throw wire, doing this also allows you see that the machine is working properly before you install it and also which way round the wires need to be ( + or - ) for proper operation for the main and branch lines.This works for me as my layout is not to thick ( 1 1/8" ) for all three layers. If your lay out is thicker you may have trouble locating a 1/16th. inch drill bit long enough to go right through.I hope this helps some of you, it's certainly a lot easier on my old bones.Regards, Limey.

On my first layout I used cork roadbed glued down with yellow glue and nailed my track down to it.
This time I want to go with using caulking and I was wondering if any of you gents (and ladies ) had a preference as to type and make of caulking. I would think that a brown or grey colour would be the least visible and easiest to cover.

Thanks, Limey.

Hi guys,
              Recently bought a Spectrum 2-10-2 ( Sealand ) with sound and thought I would hook it up to the same model of loco ( C.N. ) but for some reason it will not work.

Since the decoders are located in the tenders and the signals are sent to the loco
I thought that as long as you use the correct address it should work.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks Limey.

P.s.   to richg.  I have uncovered my E.mail  add. now, could you send me the instructions for installing decoders in a Mehano  4-6-2 Pacific.

Thanks again.

Hi friends,
                 I have been trying to find a web site that tells ( shows ) how to install a decoder in a Mehano 4-6-2 Pacific. Any one have any knowledge of such a site or any
suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks.  Limey