Thanks to Joe Satnik, Len, and Phillyreading for the help. I've ordered both pieces from Walthers, and we'll see how things work out. Thanks again. Frankv

I have a question about O gauge rail joiners. It doesn't involve Williams, so I may get kicked off this forum. I want to join Atlas Industrial Rail O36 sections with Lionel O36 "FasTrack". They both have attached roadbed and are the same height. But they have different shape rail cross sections, and consequently the rail joiners are much different. The Lionel is a fat blade and the Atlas is a pin. Does anyone make a hybrid rail joiner to mate these two types of tracks? Or is this a hopeless endeavor, and I should just bite the bullet and buy more of one type or the other? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Hi, I want to make an N scale oval with approx 19 " radius curves, to run a 2-6-6-2 loco. I'm using EZ Track for the straights, but I can't find 19" radius EZ Track. I know they make it, I just can't find any. My question is: can N scale flex track make a 19" radius? What is the minimum radius for flex track? Thanks for the help.

This is really a question for The Bachmann, but anyone who has something to offer is welcome to jump in. I want to know if the locomotives in starter sets are of the same quality as the (apparently identical) units offered for sale separately. For example the N scale Empire Builder set (160-24009) has a 4-8-4 Northern loco in it, while offered for sale separately in the Bachmann catalog is a 4-8-4 Northern (160-58052). They have the same tender, judging from the pictures. Neither loco is a Spectrum, so unless Bachmann makes lower quality locos specifically for the sets these should be identical items. Right, or wrong? I ask because I often see starter sets offered at hobby stores for not much more than the cost of the loco alone. Thanks for any help on this.

Thank you ABC, OldTimer, and richg for the helpful comments and web site recommendations. The Litchfieldstation site mentioned by richg has a University feature which has lots of great info.

My grandson & I are lusting after a 2-6-6-2 loco. He's only 6 yrs old, but boy can he lust! The only new ones I can find have Tsunami sound. (I want to stay with Bachmann). Can anyone recommend a book from which I can educate myself about sound for model trains. For example, do we need DCC to use Tsunami sound? We run DC, but we're willing to consider going to DCC if that's absolutely required. I seem to remember reading somewhere about using sound under DC. Thank you

My grandson & I have had an HO layout for some time, and he's urging me to start an N layout. I've learned (the hard way) some of the basics for HO; eg, metal wheels are better than plastic, and knuckle couplers do not work with horn hooks. But N is another world. For one thing, the darn things are not much bigger than my thumb. What are some of the important gotchas for N scale? For example, are there different N couplers out there. I keep reading about Rapido couplers - is there any other kind, and if so, which is better? Any general advice you could give us (like "don't do it") would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

My 6 yr old grandson & I  have a layout consisting of 18" & 22" nested loops bent into the shape of a U. I confess I bought the McKinley Explorer set without even thinking about the length of the cars; confirming perhaps that I have more money than common sense. Anyway, my little partner hooked up the Explorer on his own and sent it down toward the first 22" curve. My heart leaped into my throat as I saw the enormous overhang, and I got ready to deal with a disastrous derailment. But, the Explorer chugged on through the 8 curves, and it has been running successfully ever since with no troubles. Unless one wanted to worry about "looking good". I realize that some of you on this forum legitimately breathe a purer air than my little partner & I do. I mean no insult by that remark. I thoroughly enjoyed P.D.Lethbridges' dreaming in a recent post about possible changes to the J and K steam engines. But my little partner and I consider satisfying and successful operation to consist solely of our equipment completing its journey without derailment. And "looking good"? Well I ask you Ladies and Gentlemen, should we be too concerned about that? At any given moment on our layout the McKinley Explorer heading north with its butt hanging over might find passing it heading south Thomas or Percy tugging a gaggle of Troublesome Trucks. 

Note to Full Maxx: The nice lady at Bachmann Customer Service mentioned that they test the Acela on both rail and pantograph power before they send it out. They are always supposed to set it to rail power before shipping, but sometimes people forget. Not sure who "they" is - China or Bachmann. Gee, I take heart in hearing that - someone actually tests the stuff before sending it to us!!

This post is to  close the loop on Gordon's limp.

I followed The Bach Man's advice and ran Gordon for a while. The problem got worse - instead of a limp he began to develop a regular hop, which almost always resulted in a derailment.

I ran Gordon in a cradle with a tuning fork on his chassis. I could feel a regular thump, typical of a wheel with a flat spot, or a gear with a tooth missing.

So, I bit the bullet and sent Gordon back for warranty service. I'm awaiting a return shipment. My thanks to all who replied with suggestions.

Thank you Jonathan for the help.

I guess I have to eat crow on this (just a little, maybe one wing, a leg, and a claw). I had also sent an email about this to Bachmann Customer Service. Very quickly, just shortly after I had finished my rant regarding Bachmann quality on this forum, I got a call from a nice lady at Bachmann, who also told me how to find the switch.

So now the Acela runs like a rocket, which was the idea. However, I still think my set should have included a 3x5 handwritten slip of paper which said, "Before going ballistic, Dummy, check the switch under the little hatch at the back of the engine. That would have saved Bachmann a phone call, and me a little stomach lining. On the other hand perhaps the problem is that Bachmann overestimates the intelligence of (maybe just one) of its customers.

I just bought a new Acela set, The powered unit appears to be DOA (no hum, lights, or movement). Before I send it in for warranty service, I thought I should check about this switch. I seem to remember reading that there was such a switch. Not a shred of useful documentation came with this expensive set (the DVD is just std newbie advice), for which Bachmann should be embarrassed. Anybody who knows whether this switch exists, and its location, I would appreciate the help. Or, anything else to check out that I might be missing  before I send it in.

A little appropriate whining and complaining is in order. I have 3 DOA locos in for Bachmann warranty service right now, I hate to add a 4th. Besides which, the postage is beginning to mount up. I have a lot of Bachmann stuff - in fact most of my stuff is Bachmann. I'm beginning to wonder whether I've bet on the wrong horse.  I know complaints on this forum about Bachmann quality have met with the rejoinder,"Well, you didn't pay top dollar". Gee, I'm not complaining about the quality of the running - I'm unhappy that, fresh out of the box, so many don't run at all.

I got very tired of rubbing this blue-ish fluid on the tracks, then rubbing with a t-shirt. We have n/s ez track. So I bought a Silver Series track cleaning car, #160-16301. It has a rectangle of some dry material hanging underneath it. No info on how to use it came with it.
Questions:
1) does this really work?
2 how long should it take to get the average dirty track clean? minutes, hours, days? I ran it for about 20 minutes and a t-shirt rubbed on the track showed as much black as when I started.
3) can I hurt the track if I run it too long?
4) should I put the blue fluid on the rectangle, or leave it dry?

I understand that, once I get the track clean,  if I rub a little Wahl clipper oil on he track that will help keep it clean. But I need to get there first.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Thanks, guys, for the tremendously helpful advice. I am always slightly in awe of the camaraderie among model railroad people. My little conductor, who is very sensible for a just-turned-six year old, has agreed that we should patiently watch for a good running Spectrum 2-6-6-2 without sound. Then we can spend the money we save on something else, like a second 2-8-0! I'm afraid you serious modelers would be appalled by our layout: Thomas, HO, and ON30 all running around helter skelter. And, a 60 foot tall Sir Topham Hat standing proudly next to the tiny HO figures on the station platform!

On a previous post I learned that a 2-6-6-2 will run fine on our 22" radius track. On the Internet I find DCC-ready Mantua 2-6-6-2 locos at 1/3 the cost of Spectrum 2-6-6-2's with DCC & sound. We are not ready to go DCC/sound for quite a while, so we don't need the extra features of the Spectrum right now. I've already gotten a glowing recommendation for the Spectum 2-6-6-2. I know this forum forbids criticism of other manufacturers, but can anyone stay within the rules and tell me of their experiences with these two models on a DC layout?  Mr. Bach-man, if I am out of line I will go quietly.