Hi Erik et al,

We tested two E-Z Command Plus units and were not able to replicate the issue. I think you may have unfortunately gotten two defective units. Did you get the replacement directly from Bachmann service, or from a dealer/online store?

Also, unlike the original E-Z Command, the Plus uses a digital potentiometer instead of an analog one, so I don't believe it is an electrical contact issue. Can't say for sure without having our repair techs inspect it.

Please contact the service department if you have any more questions.

https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=service

I contacted Bachmann to see if they will repair an out of warranty item, but they told me the locomotives were too old and parts may not be available. 

The blue wire on the PCB is the V+ output for functions such as lights, etc.  It is one side of the keep alive connection. Power the loco and use a DC setting to find the V- side of the rectifier bridge on the PCB for the other keep alive connection. That would be one of the pads of the D1 - D4 rectifier array.

Or you could just connect it across the +/- LED connections on one end of the PCB. The blue keep alive wire goes to the + connection.

Len

I have a single motor 44tonner and a cap pack with two wires. The cap pack instructions simply say to connect to the blue and the black wires of the decoder pcb pads, but Soundtrax showed me different pads on my S4. I have read that the 44 Tonner's decoder/PCB isn't by Soundtrax which figures considering the 44tonner doesn't have sound !
I'm also fitting a Digitrax DZ126 as the oem seems to have died.

Hi everyone,

I've belatedly discovered the USRA Mikado DCC sound tender has transitioned away from the 8-pin PCB used in older models, the latest version has arrived with the H543X PCB, which has an external plug - is this plug a 21-pin plug? I can only count 12-pins on it and it doesn't appear to match the 21-pin plugs shown on decoders. Is there another transition part I need, or will a 21-pin Econami (or similar) plug directly into this board?

Cheers
Arthur

I've been wanting to do my own TTTE stories since the holiday season of 2006 & over the years, I've learned a lot of lessons from the content this community had to offer such as:

1.Study the tone of the RWS books & TVS episodes.

2.No Ramahfool type humor or humor involving engines having limbs because they're not like humans.

3.Blatant rip-off episodes MUST either be retooled or replaced with original plots.

4.Planning, Development, Structure & Competency are ALL highly advised.

5.Absolutely no stolen or copied jokes from other tv or cartoon shows.

6.Episodes MUST be filmed on either a finished main layout or few temporary layout setups.

7.Find more ways to improve your storytelling.

However, I need your help on how I could start my own TTTE fan stories. For instance: should I utilize model trains or Trainz content? If it's model trains, what scale should I stick to? Should it be HO/00, just like most of the fan-made stories from back in the early internet days ranging from 2005-2008 or Gauge 1, just like the actual model era of the official show? Since owning a model railway just to film your own stories (whether it be in HO/00 scale or Gauge 1) can actually be too costly, should I just stick to Trainz content? I need your input on this topic, please!!!

Hey Russ. That is actual deck stain I have from years gone by.Its a min was product, #233 English Chestnut.

Wow, I really like the videos.  One day I've got to learn how to create videos like yours.

This second video is concerning.  What should occur as you turn the control knob is the green LEDs should move upward on the turning of the knob.  The video definitely shows that is not occurring. 

There are variables that need to be removed in order to isolate an analyze the EZ command controller.  So, with that,
1- remove all locomotives from your track.
2-the EZ Command Plus connected to the track
3-Power up (turn on) the EZ command (press the power button)
4-Slowly turn the control knob and observe the green LED. 
5-Note, that the green LED lights should increase with no load on the track
Actually, it should increase/decrease whether or not there is a load (locomotive) on the track.
My understanding is that the green LEDs are to show the speed setting of the controller, which is supposedly a separate circuit from the track voltage.   

Lastly, before I become bearer of not-so-great news, try this:
Disconnect the track plug from the EZ Command Plus.  (No wires connected to the EZ command Plus except for the power supply)
1- Press the power button (on)
2- Turn the control knob.
3- If the green LEDs stay at 1 or 2, (or does not increase)
4- It's the EZ Command Plus.  I hope you purchased it new, since it's going to need to be returned under warranty.

This is a significant flaw in the new EZ Command Plus model.  The potentiometer (the control knob) is not making constant contact with its connection points, or internal loose solder/wiring.  Lastly, it could be frozen software (but turning the power off, should fix that issue supposedly).
 By all means, if you can get the Bachmann people to view your video, I'm sure once they see it, they will not hesitate in correcting this issue.   

This is the best I can do to support.  PS, your video is the best for troubleshooting.  Something I need to learn how to do.

By the way, I run 3 sometimes 4 DCC locomotives without a Booster, but I do have feeders about every 5 feet.

You go guy.... wonderful realistic weathering on the deck....What paint colors did you combine/use and any specific procedure? I'm in golf season right now but I have fencing to weather and I like what you have done....you get into!!!

Thanks Ralph. I did try going slower, and I was able to get some sustained running (not shown in the video), but I never got more than one green light active. Sounds like next step is to clean the track. I did buy much of it used, so perhaps I should've done that in the first place. In the long term, I will need the 5-amp booster because I hope to run 2 trains (one on each mainline) with at least 2 locos each, and likely some lighted passenger cars. However, first I want to get the basics running.