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Messages - Craig

#31
General Discussion / Re: New Ideas in Benchwork
August 17, 2009, 02:02:18 PM
Quote from: CNE Runner on August 11, 2009, 05:55:27 PM

Craig - That must be some layout you have (2'x 6' beams, legs and braces...wow). I assumed you meant the 2'x 4' cross pieces were on 24 inch centers and not 24 foot centers? 'Glad the casters worked out for you...makes maintenance easier and I think that is the route I will follow myself.

Thanks for sharing,
Ray

Looks like you made the same mistake I did, Ray.

To clarify, the bench work is comprised of 2x4 framing lumber on 24 inch centers. The grid rests on a beam system built of 2x6 framing lumber . The grid is faced with 1/4 inch plywood that is laminated with 1 inch extruded foam. The foam thickness is augmented for inclines and rural areas.
#32
HO / Re: Cleaning Track and Wheels
August 16, 2009, 10:47:41 PM
Quote from: trainsrock on August 16, 2009, 01:18:31 PM
What is the best way to clean Bachmann HO EZ-Track...
thanks,
cody

I use a pair of Centerline track cleaning cars to clean my mainline track, and the yards are cleaned by hand.
#33
Quote from: Jon D. Miller on August 13, 2009, 03:36:40 PM


...Most questions you may have should be answered....




One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

JD,

Mine certainly were. That is quite a reseource and I thank you for providing it.

Craig
#34
Someone please clarify; What makes a 4-6-0 an "Annie"? Was this a Bachmann anniversary or a Baldwin Anniversary? Is mine an "Annie" or just a Baldwin 4-6-0?
#35
Thanks again Loco Bill. Great info.
#36
Thanks to all for the responses.

Jim, I appreciate the tip.

Barry, Thank you for the offer. Do you run your laser cut parts through a tumbler? Just curious.

Loco Bill, thank you for the honest opinion. I enjoy my late version Annie quite a bit.

Danny, Thank you for sharing your thoughts on, and experience with,  plastic side rods.

#37
Thank you for the generous offer, JD. And again for the helpful information.

I take it that the plastic side rods never bothered you? I've never owned a loco that didn't have metal side rods so I'm mildly put off by this design. That bias isn't based on anything in particular; I know nothing of their durability.

Craig
#38
Jon,

That's a great site. Thank you for your assistance.

Craig
#39
Large / 4-6-0 Annie, older version. Worth keeping?
August 12, 2009, 05:40:02 PM
I acquired a track powered large scale Bachmann 4-6-0, item #31497,  as part of a recent trade. The locomotive is sealed in a factory carton. I can see that the side rods and valve gear are all plastic, unlike those of the 4-6-0's already in my roster. How did/do these versions compare to the latest editions? The details are nice, but I know nothing of this particular mechanism; would you keep it? Please opine if you own one of these puppies, or if you have owned one in the past. Thank you.

Craig
#40
General Discussion / Re: New Ideas in Benchwork
August 11, 2009, 05:32:13 PM
My bench work is similar to residential framing. I used 2x4's spaced 24' on center. The assembly rests freely on a 2x6 beam system supported by 2x6 legs and 2x6 braces. The whole shebang is on 4" casters so I'm able to work the far side of my layout now and then via the "hallway" created when I roll it to the center of the room. Otherwise it rests against two walls.
#41
Quote from: BradKT on April 16, 2009, 03:38:09 AM
To WGL:   I will have to plan where to install the re-railers as well...but I already have a pretty good idea about that.  Yeah, I have to take up some track (and have to re-do some scenery re: the roadbed to install the re-railers, but that's no big deal...a minor hassle, that's all.

When I built my son's EZ Track layout, I didn't use ANY re-railers or any prefab terminal tracks of any kind. You don't have to make any changes to your track work or scenery. Just leave it as-is and drill small holes on either side of the track where you want your feeders, then solder directly to the rails. If you don't mind drilling through the road bed the process is even simpler, and stealthier. Practice a bit ahead of time and use heat sinks when you solder to protect your plastic components.

Relax; you can do it and it won't be as hard as you think.
#42
General Discussion / Re: Securing track
April 08, 2009, 02:14:50 PM
Tuba,

I do exactly the same thing as rustyrails does except I use adhesive caulk. On straights I use a yardstick against the outside rail and drive my pushpins in. On curves I add weights to take the load off the push pins Works like a charm! Mind what rustyrails wrote about adhesive under turnouts.

Craig
#43
General Discussion / Re: Track cleaning cars
January 16, 2009, 05:11:46 PM
I do what Jim does, except I apply the alcohol and oil with Centerline Producs Rail and Wheel Cleaning cars. I use two; one with alcohol and one with oil.

http://www.centerline-products.com/rail_wheel.htm
#44
Quote from: SteamGene on January 13, 2009, 03:12:04 PM
If you have several sidings for industry, switching adds to the number of cars on the layout, but not the number in the train
How large is your layout?
Gene

Gene makes a fine point. My layout, for example, currently features 96 pieces of rolling stock. This is divided among 17 locomotives, with no train consisting of more than 13 cars.
#45
HO / Re: Ertl Authentic Railway Designs Resource
January 15, 2009, 11:33:37 AM
I have a dozen of their flatcars and gondolas. They were partially weathered right out of the box, with rust colored wheels and trucks and light road grime. I weathered the flatcar beds and bought loads for the gondolas. I also replaced the trucks and installed metal wheel sets, which I weathered myself. They come stock with plastic wheels with plastic axles.