In my book, there's no such thing as too many power feeders.

And don't let anyone tell you blocks aren't needed with DCC! A friend of mine with a 1 car garage layout bought into that myth and didn't put in any blocks, except to set up seperate power districts for his yards. One day he was doing some scenary work and dropped a T-pin. He figured he would look for it later, and when he went to fire up the layout, his DCC system tripped out because of a dead short. Long story short, 3 days later we found the pin where it had bounced on to an "inside the building" warehouse track. He decided it might be a good idea to retrofit blocks for troubleshooting purposes.

Trust me, it's easier and cheaper to put the blocks in as you build the layout.

Len

"Best power pack" is very subjective. What I might consider best for my layout may be totally different than what someone else considers best.

For what you described you were doing, the MRC 1370 will do the job and won't break the bank. It gives you the basics - 300 degree speed control know, power on/overload indicator, On/Off switch, fixed AC accessory output, and variable DC track output, and a 5 year warranty. If you're using conventional DC operation with blocks, you might want two to allow for two operators.

There are more expensive power packs out there with additional "bells and whistles", e.g., momentum, a built in reversing loop output with it's own direction switch, built in volt/amp meters, etc. But if your looking for something that will power a 30 car train with two older Athearn F-units with open frame motors at the head end, the MRC 1370 will do it.

Just use plenty of power feeders for 125ft of track.

Len

If you're double heading with two powered locos do yourself a favor and, at a minimum, get an MRC 1370 power pack. It has an 18VA rated output, the typlical train set pack is rated 7VA, and can easily handle two powered locos on the front of a long train.

Len

The cars from that set would probably be ok on 15in radius curves, if you operate slowly.

I have serious doubts about the loco though, both because of it's length and the wheelbase of the trucks.

Something along the lines of a 44 or 70 tonner would be more appropriate for that tight a curve.

Len

If you don't want to get into the classic "Up & Over" figure-8, which has almost all the track either going up or down except short sections at the top and bottom, there are a couple of options.

A. Use 2in thick blue or pink insulating foam as a base for you layout. This allows you to keep the track flat, yet makes it very easy to carve out rivers, cuts, etc., to justify bridges and/or trestles.

B. Use Woodland Scenics foam risers as a base for the track, leaving gaps where you want to install a bridge or trestle. Using the foam risers allows rolling hills to easily be created using wadded up newsprint and plaster cloth between the risers. This allows the track to stay flat, while creating the illusion track is going up and down. The risers are available in heights of 1/2", 3/4", 1", 2", and 4". There are also inclines available to transition between riser heights if you actually want to add grades, without the full "up & over" look.

Len

Quote from: Doneldon on January 18, 2012, 11:26:28 PM

Quote from: Len on January 18, 2012, 08:57:33 AM
For what it's worth, I've found using 'O' cork roadbed with code 100 track comes closer to matching the height of the EZ-Track plastic roadbed than 'HO' cork does.

Len

Len-

Do you narrow the O-gauge roadbed?

                                                -- D   

It depends on the mood I'm in at the time. I just use 12 to 18 inches of 'O' roadbed, then switch to regular HO roadbed. I use some sandpaper wrapped around a chunk of 2x4 to taper the 'O' cork down to match the HO cork, then vacumn up the mess.

Len

For what it's worth, I've found using 'O' cork roadbed with code 100 track comes closer to matching the height of the EZ-Track plastic roadbed than 'HO' cork does.

Len

The Alan Gartner's web site http://www.wiringfordcc.com/ also has a bunch of useful info on wiring a DCC layout.

Len

I basically agree with Roger, with one exception regarding articulated steamers. Mantua's 2-6-6-2 articulated, based on a logging loco that was originally designed for rough track with tight curves, handles 18in curves fine. And it doesn't look completely rediculous doing it.

One of these days I've got to dig the "Death Spiral" out, and see just how tight a curve it can handle.

Len

The wire you're looking for comes with the 9in straight and 18in radius curve terminal track sections. For reasons known only to Bachmann it is not available as a seperate purchase item.

Apparently Bachmann thinks these wires never go bad and have to be replaced. Or that people may want to upgrade from the train set controller with the phono plug jack, to an MRC power pack with screw terminals as their power needs grow.

At any rate, the wire you're looking for is available. Just not for seperate purchase.

Len

Quote from: MR536 on January 14, 2012, 01:54:30 AM
The GP7 and GP9 both have 6 axles that I know of...but before I buy into this model...what are the chances they will perform on an existing 18" turn? Has anyone had experiences with these models derailing?

Actually, the GP7 & GP9 (GP = General Purpose, aka "Geeps") had 4-axle trucks, the SD7 and SD9 (SD = Special Duty) were the 6-axle versions. The extra axles were to reduce the axle loading, or weight per axle, allowing them to operate on branch lines with less than optimal track, hence "Special Duty" locos.

All of the Geeps I own will negotiate 18in radius curves just fine.

Most of the SD's I've got, except one Proto, will also.

That one makes 18in radius left turns fine, but jumps the track on 18in right turns.  Nothing appears to be binding, the wheels are all in gauge, the trucks have the same swing both ways, but it just doesn't like those 18in right curves. So I keep it on the runs with 22in, or bigger, curves and it's happy. All my other SD's handle 18in curves with no problems.

Len

There was a big discussion about this on the OGR forum back Kadar first took over Sanda Kan and didn't renew the "K-Line by Lionel" agreement with Lionel, which was set to expire on 1 Jan 2011.

Basically, the K-Line tooling has been parcelled out, and K-Line is no more . The major stuff more or less breaks down to:

Bachmann got the "Super-Streets", soon to be "EZ-Streets" to add to their 'O' line-up.

Ready-Made-Toys (RMT) got "Super-Snap Track" and the O-27 stuff.

Atlas-O got the full size 'O' rolling stock.

Lionel keeps the reproduction American Flyer track, since they own the rights to American Flyer.

I haven't seen a good listing on how the buildings, bridge piers & trestle sets, etc., shook out yet. I'm hoping the trestle sets & bridge piers stay available, because they work really well with the Atlas-O "21st Century" track system.

Len

Another option would be to use Atlas Code 100 Terminal Joiners. Basically a rail joiner with a wire already attached to it. You just replace the standard rail joiner with the terminal joiner. Sliding the rail partially out of the roadbed, so the joiner isn't trapped between the rail and roadbed, makes removing the original joiner a bit easier.

Len

Ok, that's the cable that comes with the HO & N terminal tracks. I haven't seen it listed seperately as a part for some time. I suspect the simplest way to get one will be to by an HO or N terminal track that comes with it.

Either that, or purchase the red extension cable, clip the male end off, seperate the wires, strip the ends, and put them under the terminal screws of the power source.

Len

It's listed under the 'Parts' section of the B'mann web site.

PN: BAC00002
Short Red Power Cable, $4.00 + S&H (Limit 3/order)

If the plug end of a cable you already have is damaged, you can replace the plug with a stereo mini-plug of the same size from Radio Shack. The wires connect to the 'Ring' and 'Sleeve' terminals, the 'Tip' connection is not used.

Len