This is the truck mounting screw he's looking for. It works for the original Williams diesels too.
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_219&products_id=5395

The semi-scale body mount screw may work for the original Williams E7 also:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_219&products_id=4586

If not, a 3mm self tapping screw should work.

Len

It's not just a constant 12V on the track, it's 12V with a DCC signal provided by any of the many DCC systems available. A 'dummy plug' replaces the decoder and connects the socket holes as shown on the right here:



A quick look using the key DCC DUMMY PLUG in the search engine of your choice should bring up several places to purchase one. Or you can use small gauge solid wire to connect the socket holes together as shown in the picture.

Len

Almost all of the screws used in the Williams/Williams by Bachmann diesels are listed on pages 6 and 7 of the 'O/Williams' "Universal Parts" lisings. There's not a lot of variation in the screws used on different diesel locos:

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_219&sort=20a&page=6
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_219&sort=20a&page=7

All of the screws are metric. The only real difference I ran into when things switched to 'Williams by Bachmann' is for some reason the pilot mounting screw on the front truck was changed from 3mm to 3.5mm

Len

DCC equiped locomotives normally expect to see a constant 12V DCC signal on the track. When operating DCC equiped locomotives using a DC power pack the decoder is looking for at least 5V on the track before it passes any power to the motor. This means the throttle on a DC power pack has to be turned considerably higher to get a DCC locomotive moving than a straight DC locomotive.

If the PCB has an 8-pin socket for the decoder, you can replace the decoder with a dummy plug tna it will operate at the lower voltages of a regular DC locomotive.

Len

The BK kits are photo finished card stock, not foam. Roket Card Glue, or low temp hot melt glue, will hold them together. Most of them were originally intended for use with 1/64 scale slot cars, but they also work with S scale trains. They are oversized for use with HO trains.

Len

When my repair shop was open I got almost all the screws I needed for Williams/Williams by Bachmann locos from these guys:
http://www.microfasteners.com/

Len

Quote from: bill collins on January 11, 2024, 04:50:50 PMThanks for the help. I'm thinking of using Peco code 100 track. Would that change the material list.

The number of wyes and switches would be the same. The curves and straight sizes and quantities would be different. Using the Peco Small Radius wyes and turnouts would result in something closer to the orignal hand laid layout.

Len

The original timesave was hand laid track and used #4 wyes. This is an EZ-Track version using #5 wyes. A small switcher and 40 foot cars are assumed. The labels indicate how many cars various spurs and run around tracks should hold. The red dots are uncoupler magnet locations. Spur lengths should be adjusted for the number of cars indicated. Although the upper run around track may end up 2 cars instead of 1 because of the EZ-Track geometry vs the original layout.



Rough track list based on diagram. Two 2" straights go beteen the 33.6" curves on each leg of the right hand run around wye.

Item list for EZ_Time_Saver
QTY     NUMBER       DESCRIPTION
(4)     44569        EZ  #5 wye turnout
(2)     44565        EZ  #5 LH turnout
(3)     44508        EZ  R-33.3 6° curve
(4)     44592A       EZ  2 inch straight
(3)     44514        EZ  4.5 inch straight
( 8 )     44511        EZ  9 inch straight

Len

This pick should give a rough idea of the differences in track sizes. Third from the left is HO, fifth from left is O:



Len

Since New Have was so Alco heavy in the early diesel years, PRR farmed out repair of their early Alco diesels to New Haven until they got their own shops up to speed. Could make for some interesting traffic for both PRR and New Haven modelers of that time period.

Len

Just a point of reference for 'under the tree' trains. The center rail of O36 O-gauge plastic roadbed track is the same diameter as the center-to-center diameter of a circle of 18" radius HO track, with or without roadbed. The main difference is the O-gauge track roadbed is wider.

Len

Since you are doing this for a museum, you might want to also consider the liability risk involved with making repairs to what is consider a 'not user repairable' device. Such repairs could potentially void, or at least complicate, any insurance payouts in the event of a fire. Even if the power pack is not directly involved. Also, as the one doing the repairs, you could also be considered personally liable in the event the power pack is involved. Even if the museum has to hold a bake sale fund raiser, better to replace tthe bad power packs than mess with their insides.

Len

This fellow has been modeling the Philly area for quite awhile. You might get some ideas hitting the links on his site:

http://www.prrnortheastcorridor.com/model_railroad_photos.html

Len

Most power packs, including the ones you have, are not considered user repairable devices and parts are generally not available. If under warranty, they'll usually be swapped for a working unit. If not under warranty, the MRC AA370 Railpower 1370 is roughly equivelant, in fact in has a higher VA rating, and can be found online for a reasonable price.

Len

One way around the 50 piece layout limitation is to do two half layouts. Print to the same scale and tape them together.

Len