Another very useful web page with a ton of info on making turnouts "DCC Friendly" if they're not already, and dealing with those oddball layout wiring issues:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm

Len

The #6 crossover should only need modifying if you're trying to run two locos on seperate loops, with seperate power packs, connected by the crossover. If you're only running one loco that moves between the loops connected by the crossovers no modification should be needed.

What it sounds like is the crossover is 'power routing', so you may need to feed power from you power pack to both loops from the point ends of the crossover switches. Just be sure to keep your polarities straight. Either that, or you've got a bad crossover.

If you are running seperate locos on isolated loops, then the crossover does need to be modified.

Len

The 2900 is a "modern" American style roundhouse. It includes parts to extend one stall from 125ft to 145ft for larger locomotives. The 3041 is an older style generic roundhouse designed to hold 'average' size locos, with no extra parts to extend a stall.

Len

Nice cars! Were they a special run, or is Con-Cor doing a 'high end' series of cars along with their standard line??

Len

Quote from: timhar47 on February 19, 2011, 12:54:36 PM
Funny-I really like the shorty psgr cars, but refused to pay ConCor's crazy price of $120 for 2.

Not sure what you're looking at. Walthers web site shows Con-Cor 72ft HO passenger cars at $23.98 each:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Passenger&scale=H&manu=223&item=&keywords=72&words=restrict&instock=Y&split=300&Submit=Search

Len

You might also consider replacing the bulbs with an LED lighting kit. Miniatronics makes a nice one, PN: 100YCL01. It has a built in capacitor that keeps the lighting on for up to 3 minutes without power for "station stops".

It's designed so the PC board can be shortened with a razor saw for shorter cars. I have a set of Rounhouse Overton cars I used them in, and they look good. The 'YellowGlo' LEDs eliminate the window glare you generally get with incandescent bulbs.

Len

You answered your own question. If the Atlas #4 has an angle of 12.5deg then so will Bachmann's, or anyone elses, if it's actually a #4. The number of a numbered switch is based on a ratio, similar to rise to run in construction, and as long as the ratio is maintained the diverging angle will always be the same.

Over simplifying just a bit, if the rails forming the switch point are 1in apart 4in from the point it's a #4 switch. If they are 1in apart 6in from the point it's a #6 switch, and so on.

I normally cut down a 22in radius curve to get back parallel with numbered switches. In RR-Track select a 22in radius curve, then use the "Cut Curve" function at the bottom of the 'Curve' menu to chop it down. Just set the arc to match the switch angle, 12.5deg for the #4, and click OK and place the resulting track section as you would normally.

Len

Quote from: bachwolf on February 16, 2011, 05:42:28 AM
Bachmann wheel sets are great value and fit the widest variety of older HO cars I have found. Does anyone know why the 33" and 36" wheels sets are not available in economy packs of 36 or more?

Personally I only use Intermountain wheelsets, except the few oddball axle lengths and end types I get from Reboxx. They have metal axles, as well as metal wheels which are insulated on one side. This makes it very easy to use them when using Miniatronics lighting kits for passenger cars and cabeese.

You can get Intermountain 33" & 36" wheels in bulk packs of 100 from Walthers. Part numbers from Walthers are 85-40055 for the 33" and 85-40056 for the 36", both are currently in stock.

Len

Actually, you might not want to bother. Aside from being considered ugly by some, the BL-2 suffered from a weak frame, and most roads learned real quick not to double head them at the front of a heavy train unless the shop had done some significant reinforcing work.

Of course the "BL" stood for "Branch Line", so in all likelyhood EMD never thought they'd be MUed at the front of a heavy train. The MU equipment was most likely installed for putting two of them on the front of a relatively light train in hilly country.

Len

JP,

As I mentioned earlier, Lionel has brushes with a copper 'wick' imbedded in them (PN: 6108507150) for $1.20/ea+S&H. The wick gets soldered to the brush holder with the e-unit wire so connectivity isn't completely dependent on the brush spring, eliminating the problem you found.

Len

I suspect because there are some young folks "out there" that like to watch them operate at 'Warp 9.5' the way the old ones do in the "I Love Toy Trains" videos.

It'd probably add to the cost, but putting a switch in for "Parallel/Series" motor connections might be an option.

Len

You might give the MRC "Generic Diesel" Universal Sound Decoder a try. It comes with a baffled speaker and an 8-pin plug connector on the wires. It's easy enough to remove the plug and hardwire to an Athear BB loco.

A little work on the weight with a hacksaw and file should create a space for the speaker. It's available from Walthers (PN: 500-1669) for around $80.00.

Len

If you have some four test leads with alligator clips on both ends, Radio Shacks your friend if you don't, there's a quick way to verify if the problem is the motor or something else.

Disconnect all e-unit wires, leave the field coil wire on the lug between the brushes, and remove the motor from the loco. Put the brushes back if you didn't already.

Connect a test lead from the center lug with the field coil wire to either brush holder.

Connect a test lead from the other brush holder to lug on the side of the motor with the other end of the field coil wire attached to it.

Use the remaining test leads to connect one brush holder to the 'A' terminal of your transformer, and the other brush holder to the 'U' side.

Bring the throttle up slowly and see if the motor starts spinning in either direction.

If the and the ohm readings between armature segments were okay and the armature doesn't move, or moves a little but doesn't spin up, you've got a bad field coil that's not creating enough of a magnetic field for the armature to push against. In which case the motor needs to be replaced, or the field coil rewound.

If the motor does spin up okay the problem is somewhere in the wiring and/or the e-unit. Never forget, there's no rule that says you can only have one problem at a time!

Len

Many people, including myself, use JMRI DecoderPro, which is open source software that's free!

They also have something called PanelPro that's supposed to let you run your layout from a computer. I haven't tried it, so can't comment on how well it does or doesn't work.

JMRI's webpage can be found at: http://jmri.sourceforge.net/help/en/html/apps/index.shtml

The hardware you'll need will depend on which DCC system you're using.

Len

In addition to what Joe said, did you check the wear of the motor brushes themselves. If you can see half, or more, of the brush holder above the brushes they should be replaced.

Replacements are available from Olsen's Toy Trains (PN: 622-121) for $1.00/pr+S&H. Or you can get brushes with a copper 'wick' imbedded from Lionel (PN: 6108507150) for $1.20/ea+S&H. The wick gets soldered to the brush holder with the e-unit wire so connectivity isn't completely dependent on the brush spring.

Len